Sunday, January 27, 2008

Building Bob VII




The Doctor gave my wife the good news on Saturday. The cast will come off on Thursday. One more week.....

I am looking forward to some shop time and finishing some figures I have and of course finishing Bob.

I had a chance to install his eye control and eyebrow control. As you can see in the picture, the brass rod is in a sleeve which goes all the way through the neck to the post. It is bent at the bottom to accomodate a wooden ball for the control.

At the top, the rod has an "L" shape that goes through the loop. When the ball at the bottom is turned, the L in the rod turns and pushes the loop to the right or the left.

an eye screw is connected to the back of the head where a spring connects from the L to the screw. The spring keeps the eyes at center and causes them to return to center when the control is turned. You might have to put the screw in several times to make sure that the eyes are centered. I never get it on the first try.

The brass tubes that are through the forehead have brass rods that are bent in the front to create an eyebrow and are looped inside the head so a spring can be attached to each loop. I tie a cord through the center of the spring and run it over the top of a brass bar with a sleeve on it.

The cord then goes through the hole at the base of the head to be connected to brass conrtrols.

Inside the head, there is a dowel mounted across the inside of the cheeks. This is used as a stabilizer for the brass sleeve eye control. I tie the brass rod to it securely and then cover it with super glue.

Before i attached the dowel to the inside of the head, I put a bobbin on it. The mouth has two eye screws. One is connected to a spring which keeps the mouth closed(spring is connected to back of inside neck) The other has the control cord for the mouth attached. It runs over the bobbin and through the hole at the base of the neck where it will be attached to brass controls.

I'm waiting for Bob's hair to arrive. When it does, he will be complete.

Sunday, January 20, 2008

The slow building of Bob




My wife Darlene has been totally disabled and needs help moving around. The brace goes all the way to the top of her thigh and all the way down to her ankle. I have been with her constantly and haven't had any building time. She's alot more important to me than figure making. She would do the same for me.

Bob contacted me last week and told me his eyes were blue, not brown, so I did a little surgery and changed them out.

I added Bob's head post and put the sleeves in his forehead for his eyebrows. I also added a little more shape to his brow and cheeks. I will install the eyebrows and controls this week and I am still looking for a wig tha best resembles Bob's hair. I have a few that are close but no cigar.

I also had a chance to finish up some conversion figures that were meant to go in my stre at Christmas time. They are there now. I hope everyone has a great week. Darlene has to be re evaluated on Thursday and we will find out if the brace comes off or not. Happy Venting!

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Building Bob V




Hope everyone had a happy new year. This has been a tough few weeks for us. Darlene is basically imobile and I spend most of my time taking care of her when I am not at work. I apoligize to Bob and Dan for the length of time it is taking me to finish this project. It seems we have been having one tragedy after another in this family.

I installed Bob's mouth and sealed it in place. I also made his eyes. I used a 1 1/2" dowel and cut it down to the width of the eyes I wanted. I used a 1/4 inch paddle bit to drill the iris placement. I added a little magic sculpt to round out the top and the bottom of the dowel to give the eye a round shape. I painted the dowel white and installed the iris. I painted a black ring around the iris to give the eye more "pop".

I drilled a wire sized hole through the top of the dowel and used a piece of brass wire to go through it. Imade an "S" shape on the top and the bottom of the wires and 1/4 of an inch tail a the end. I drilled a wire sized hole in the back of each dowel and installed the wire which will hold the eye to the linkage.

I made a linkage from a 3 inch long piece of wood cut 1/4 inch thick and 1/2 inch thick.

I drilled a hole on each side about 1/2 inch from the end of each side. I then wrapped some thick wire around the piece of wood and created a loop that will be the guide for the control rod.

I set the eyes in to the head with some magic sculpt above and beloqw the eye and pushed the tail of the brass wire into the magic sculpt at the top and bottom. When it dried, I was able to adjust the eye positioning because of the "S" shape I made in the brass wire at the top and the bottom. I then connected the eyes to the wooden armature.

I added a "finger" to the inside of the mouth and put an eye hook in in which I will connect a spring to later on.

Bob has his first coat of paint. After he dries, I will shade him more and seal him. Then I will install his head post and eyebrows. As always, anything I can help anyone with, feel free to contact me at gepettosworkshop@yahoo.com

Sunday, December 30, 2007





I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! We celebrated the birth of our Savior here at home. It turns out my wife didn't sprain her knee, she broke her leg! The hospital sent her home saying she was alright and told her to visit an orthopedic doctor.

He gave her a shot of cortisone and told her she'd feel better in a week. Three days later her leg was swollen and she was in pain. Of course the doctor was on vacation so Darlene suffered until after the holiday. He then took an MRI and found she had split the large bone in her calve. I don't know why doctors are paid so much when they constantly misdiagnose problems.

She is now in a leg cast and has to have someone with her to help her up and down. My granddaughter is here in the early evening until she goes to bed and I am with her all day until I go to work. Needless to say, figure making is on the back burner.

I did complete Bob's lower jaw. I fit it by building out the sides and grinding it on a belt sander until it fit.

I then drill a hole through the jaw and mount a hollow brass tube through it. I slide a brass rod into the tube and cut it to the width of it's placement inside the head.

When the jaw is finished, put it in the head where it goes and build up some epoxy sculpt under the brass rod leaving the indentation of the rod in the putty. Take the mouth out and wait for it to dry.

While it dries, you can sculpt out the inside of the mouth. Teeth and tongue for a realistic look.

I drilled holes in the head for his eyebrows which I will install next week along with his eyes. I

I put a coat of paint on the head to find any touching up needed. So instead of Bob Albino, he is starting to look like Bob Albano.

Monday, December 24, 2007

Building Bob V




After sanding Bob's face, I cut out the eyeholes and the mouth slot. It is very important to make sure your lines are straight for the mouth and the distance between the top and the bottom is the same width. Otherwise the mouth won't fit well.

I then glue the bottom part of the head back on to the face plate, leaving the back of the head off to add the mechanics later on. I use string or rubber bands to hold the head together while it is drying. I use Gorilla glue to attach the pieces.
together. Then I build up the cup around the mouth piece I removed. Some people use wood for the sides of the mouth because it is flush and will be more forgiving with the fit. I just make it out of magic sculpt and then use a belt sander to make the sides flush. I always build out wide so I can take off to make a good fit.

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Building Bob IV




I woke up at 1:00 this morning and couldn't get back to sleep. I decided to work on Bob's facial features. Bob e-mailed me a picture (I asked for a side view also but he didn't have any on hand so I punted!) I took the

I sat down in front of my computer with a glob of epoxy sculpt and started working. Here is the result of the rough out.
I will fill in where needed and smooth out the features once it dries. Then I will cut out the eye holes and the mouth.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Building Bob III





It's been almost two weeks since my last post. My wife and I were getting ready to take my father out for his 79th birthday and she caught her foot under the rug and fell hard. She damaged the meniscus in her knee and possibly tore a ligament. I have been spending all my time with her. She is unable to walk.

I did start Bob's head this weekend. What I do is take a hat mannequin and cover it with tin foil.

I have about five different versions of them for different styles. Bob has medium smooth features. He has no outstanding features like a large nose or big chin. Good for him, deefeecult for me (o;


When making a caricature, it is easier when there are outstanding features. When there aren't, the head has to really resemble the photo or the whole idea is lost.

After I cover it in tin foil, I use one of two mediums, either magic sculpt or paper clay. In this instant I am using magic sculpt. ( I ran out of paper clay)

Paper clay is much easier to work with and requires little if any sanding when finished. Magic sculpt is a bear to sand and takes quite awhile just to get ridges smooth.

After i cover the head, i let is sit for about thirty minutes and then I cut the head in half right on the hat mannequin and run the blade across the back of the head also. I can then remove it from it's armature to do the finished work when it dries. That's where I am so far.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Building Bob II






I attach a quilted cover to the body by wrapping it around, trimming at the top and the bottom. I leave enough on the bottom to fold under.

I then roll two tubes of filler and attach them around the neck hole. I staple them into a circle and then glue underneath them to hold in place. I use Fabri-Tac. It is the best glue on the market in my opinion and can be bought in just about any hobby or fabric store.

I then cover the top with fleece. I pull it tight around the top and staple it in place in the front and glue it to the back of the top.. I then cut a small hole in the top and pull at it to open it to about an 1 3/4 inches. Theres his body cavity.


Now, I cut two pieces of cloth for arms and two for legs. I made a pattern for those and cut them down as needed. I didn't have a pattern at first, but my wife was frustrated with me constantly asking her "do these look good?"

For the legs, I fold the cloth in half and trace the pattern. I cut it out at the opened end and stitch it closed, leaving an opening at the top of the legs to stuff it.

I do the same thing for the arms (with a pattern) and leave both ends open.

I then turn them inside out and stuff them. I attach the hands on one side by folding an inside colloar on the arm sleeve and sliding the hand into it. I run a bead of glue around the wrist with Fabri-Tac and pull the sleeve over the bead. I then sew a joint in the legs and the arms so the figure will have the ability to move his arm with an arm rod and so his legs hang when he sits.


Sunday, November 25, 2007

Building Bob Albano






The holidays have kept me in overtime. We've visited, been visited,and have been working busily in the shop to keep up with holiday demands. I was supposed to start last week showing how i make a tribute figure. Best laid plans of mice and men....

Anyway! I will start this week.

The first thing I will show you is how i make the body cavity. Bob is of medium builld with a slim waste so we have to tapere the body. I have cut out a bottom and a top that will fit the head I am making. You ask, what is the size? I don't make a standard size. I choose the head shape I will use (later in detail) and from that, I plan my body.

After cutting out the pieces, I use a 3" hole saw to cut out the neck hole. I then drill two 1/2 inch holes in the top and the bottom of the pieces. These holes will hold 1/2 inch dowels which will give the body contour. Then I cut the dowels to the height of 13 inches. That will be the height of the body.

I cut two pieces of 1/2 by 2" #2 grade furring strips 12 inches long for the sides and nail them on either side of the top and then connect it to the bottom by doing the same. I run a bead of glue in the holes where the dowels will go and do the same for the top and bottom of the furring strips to give it added strength. and the result is the body cavity.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Giving tributes to the tributors




Thanksgiving is a time to give thanks for all we have. Along with family and friends and everything God has given me, I want to thank a couple of people who have done alot for the vent community. I have created and am in the middle of creating tribute figures for two people who deserve alot of recognition. Bob Albano for his hard work and effort putting together the tribute to ventriloquism website http://mercurye.com/ventriloquism

and Dan Willinger for his website http://www.ventriloquistcentral.com/

I am almost finished with Dans and I am starting Bobs. I will show each step as I make Bobs figure. I want to thank Bob foremost for considering me when he put together his tribute and listing me as a figure maker in it. Thank you and God bless.

I will start this weekend showing how I sculpt out a head using a photo of the person, then add mechanics and a little pixie dust to finish them up. Have a great week.

These are pictures of Dans figure. I made it to look like him. What better way than to honor these men who have done so much for us than to imortalize them as vent figures! P.S: I made the heads larger than life so there is no question of them being conversion figures ( ;